Portly old monks in maroon robes are counting bundles of money, and child trainees [samaneras] are stifling yawns. They've been sitting and chanting all day and into the night for most of the two-week celebration for Mongolia's lunar new year.
I ask my friend what they are chanting about as he stops my coat from catching fire on the coal stove. ''I don't really know,'' he says. ''Actually, nobody does. [Because] it's all in Tibetan -- we just have to trust them.''
Ninety-eight per cent of the country's 2.7 million people count themselves as Tibetan Buddhists, thanks to ties that go back centuries. But only a few hundred trained monks can read the scriptures of their [Vajrayana] faith. My friend, a Mongolian neighbor from Beijing, has brought me here to pray for good health and fortune in between his meetings about national politics and personal uranium exploration. More>>
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